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How to bath cat? Is bathing a cat difficult? Washing cat and bathing cat revealed here!
[1] Make sure that the Water Temperature is right for Bathing Cat.
The water should be luke-warm when going to bathe cat, more on the room-temperature side, because if you put hot water on your cat, it will get burned.
Cold water is always a better solution for bathing cats or kittens. Cats don’t mind the cold. Unlike myself.
Yet water should not be tooo cold when bathing a cat- you know what I mean – not so freezing cold that your poor cat shakes and its teeth chatter… Just pleasantly luke-warm, like for a baby bath.
[2] What Should You Bathe Cat In?
Choose a shallow bathing tub that your cat can easily stand in. Deep buckets might cause cats to panic and feel as though they’re stuck in a narrow clastrophobic well.
Best would be a shallow plastic container or a small laundry bucket, that is safe for cats and not slippery.
We plan on introducing our cats to water in a gradual way and not throw them into a 6 foot/2m pool and have them get a heart attack from fright.
Place a towel around the dish so that your cat can stand on it afterwards and get dry. Also the towel aroung the cat bath will prevent your house from drowning under water. ;-D
You can also use a rubber mat for the bath bottom, so the cat won’t slip, but it isn’t a ” must have “.
If it’s a slippery tray, then the rubber mat is advisable, but if it is a plastic dish, then you don’t need to worry about it. Anyway, it’s a shallow cat bath so there is no risk.
[3] How Deep Should The Cat Bath Waters Be?
Start bathing your cat with just enough water to be above cats feet.
For the time bathing kittens or washing cats, just place your cat in the tub and let cat play around in there. Cats will get used to the bath and think it is fun.
Tips For Playing With Your Cat In The Tub:
If you play with your cat inside the cats bath with a string, or with some other toy your cat will enjoy bathing and want to get in there again.
Make it the place where you play with your cat with a certain item (like a mouse on a string or some kind of “cat bathing” toy.) you only use in bath. Your cat will be glad to jump in there and want to play with you.
Another cat bathing motivator is giving your cat a few yummy cat treats when he baths.
Next Stages Of Cat In The Tub
Don’t worry if your cat makes a mess. The towels you places around the bath tub will mop up most of it.
Gradually you can begin to increase the depth of the water.
Beware: For most cat types, water should never be deeper than cat’s knees.
This should be enough water to give your cat a bath, without creating the fear of drowning panic in your cat’s mind.
How to wash your cat in the cat bath?
Don’t pour the water over your cat or dunk her inside, instead use a wet cloth and dab your cat with it over his or her fur while paying with it in the bath.
Some cats are amazingly expert swimmers, maybe you will have the next “swimming champion”, but don’t push your cat to be one…
For more information visit CatCamille’s website: http://catlovingcare.com
Good luck bathing your cat!
Catscamille
By: Cats Camille
About the Author:
Catcamille is a beloved animal writer who writes about all kinds of cat problems and cat health and cat issues. You can keep up to date on her writing on http://catlovingcare.com if you have any questions you can ask her and she will be sure to help you!
Persian Cat Breed Origin
So how does such mutation as long hair appear in a domestic cat? None of its wild counterparts has long hair gene. Well, if only lynx and snow leopard have a slightly longer coat due to the environmental conditions of their habitat.
It’s rather difficult now to investigate the origins of the long-haired cats, but most probably they are rooted in Persia, which is now called Iran. That’s from where Pietro della Valle brought several long-haired cat beauties to Italy in 1620. And a few years later the scholar and naturalist Nicolas-Claude Fabri de Peiresc brought long-haired cats form Angora (now Ankara in Turkey) to France. When the first long-haired cats appeared in England (which is now called ‘the second motherland of the Persian cats) they were called ‘French cats’.
It’s not exactly known whether those were the cats of one and the same breed. Nowadays it is the recognized fact that there existed several breeds of long-haired cats in the East. Angora cats were described as fluffy, light and active animals of a medium size, while well-known Alfred Edmund Brehm described long-haired Angora cats as big-sized and clumsy cats. He as well noted that grey and blue Angora cats were observed in the South of Siberia.
It’s not easy to answer the question why the animal from hot Asian counties has got long hair, while Mother Nature usually gifted long-hair to animals from severe Northern countries.
There are several versions regarding the long-haired cats origin. Some believe that among the ancestors of the Persian cat breed there were long-haired cats form Siberia which at first got into East and Small Asia, and only then were brought to Western Europe.
Others believe that long hair was a mutation which happened to a short-haired cat in the East, which then was kept in the process of domestication and some sort of selection – thus the cats which got into Europe and Siberia were aborigineous to Eastern countries.
The third theory roots in the phenotypic differences between the Persian cats and other domestic cats. This theory suggests that massive stocky with the ears set wide, big round head are related to Pallas’ Cat ( Felis manul ) otherwise known as Manul – wild cat which lives in Central Asia and has comparatively long hair, flat face with round eyes and ears set low on the head. Recent research however refutes this theory.
Such are the different Persian cat origin theories but anyway, all of them are pointing to Iran, Turkey and Afghanistan as the Persian cat native lands.
England is rightfully called the second Motherland of the Persian cats, as it were British cat fanciers who started to purposefully breed cat breeds (and primarily – Persian cat breed) in the 19th century. Although that was the time when the long-haired cats started being differentiated into Turkish Angora (long flexible body, silky but less thick coat, big pointed ears) and Persian cats (massive, with big round head and small ears), as a matter of fact only blue cats of the latter were called Persian, and all the rest were simply called ‘long-haired’ cats. Every of about 50 colors of long-haired cats was considered to be a separate breed. Till nowadays the Persian cat in England is not in fact called ‘Persian’ but rather ‘long-haired’, and every color variation is attributed to a separate cat breed. Also the official ruling of the British cat fanciers club regarding this issue was issued as early as 1910, the Englishmen still follow this kind of breed distinction.
The Persian cats arrived into America in the eighties of the 19th century and soon became a very popular cat breed. Unlike British clubs, in America all the color variations of the long-haired cats were attributed to one cat breed – “the Persian cat”. There are lots of color variations for Persian cats but Persian show cats are limited to the following colors: solid color, shaded and smoke, tabby, particolor, bicolor.
For today we know about 150 variations of the persian cat breed and contemporary persian cat, due to the efforts of many breeders, is a work of art among the other cat breeds. New age Persian cats are quite different form their ancestors. The Persian cats of the ‘old type’ had a narrower face, the color variations were not so rich and the coat was not so thick and delightful. Contemporary Persian cat might have its coat as long as 10 centimeters. One could say that the contemporary persian cat is the result of selective breeding by cat breeders from different countries. Probably due to that fact there are several Persian breed standards and some of the traits are still not agreed upon.
For one, starting form the middle of the 20th century, American cat breeders’s efforts were aimed at reinforcing traits peculiar to Persian breed – they were trying to breed a cat with even more massive, short body, even more round head and flat muzzle. As a result a new variation – Extreme Persian (or Peeked Faced Persian) – emerged. The first kittens of that type were born to red and red tabby persians in 1920-s. Although veterinarians believe that extreme manifestation of such traits is harmful to the animals health (specifically affecting their sinuses and breathing), and the despite the fact that British cat fanciers stand against such breeding, extreme persians are extremely popular in America and many European countries.
Contemporary persian cat became progenitor to a new breed – Exotic cat – a short-haired cat breed which has all the traits specific for the Persian cat breed with the exception of the coat length. Exotic cat is a hybrid with adorable temperament and excellent physical condition. The breed was created by American cat breeders in 1960-s. FIFe (Federation Internationale Feline) recognized the Exotic cat breed in 1984. Short (though longer than with other short-haired cat breeds) but awesome sparkly coat of the Exotic cat does not cause any problems with grooming.
By: alex
About the Author:
Peter Leathers, as many other Persian cat fanciers is always eager to learn something new about Persian cat breed. Currently being employed as freelance writer for Catrealm.org, Peter is finally able to apply his skills to promoting some cat knowledge.
10 Minutes to Train Your Cat
The key to effective training is consistency. Whatever you choose, be sure to do it on regularly, otherwise, you’ll be sending your cat mixed signals. And that will only make it that much harder to train her. Forget about cat training in 10 minutes!
Below are ten “must have” tips that will get you through your initial phase cat ownership.
1. Cats really don’t care that you punish them. It’s true. If you’ve owned a dog, you know that punishing him will help change his behavior. It doesn’t with cats. Bottom line. Don’t waste your time. They’ll sit there purring at you and just perform that same behavior again.
2. Corporal punishment is out of the question. Because a cat’s body is so delicate, you can’t “spank” a cat the way you do a dog to get its attention. That means when you’re training your cat, you have to match wits with it. Don’t worry. I’m confident you’ll win. There are things out there like cat clicker training, but I don’t recommend it.
3. Use a form of positive reinforcement. As you become a seasoned cat owner, you’ll discover that it’s difficult to catch your cat in the actual “crime”. It’s far easier, then, to reward your cat when you see her performing a right behavior. Keep some cat “treats” on hand. Feed one to your cat whenever she is doing something positive – like using the litter box or using her scratching post.
4. Keep plenty of toys – either store bought or make shift – around the house. Much of the “bad” behavior of cats is simply because they’re board. The feline is by nature a predatory animal. Remember the scene in the Disney movie, The Lion King, where little Simba gets “pouncing lessons.” When you think your cat is literally bouncing off the walls and tearing down the curtains, he’s only practicing his predatory skills. Provide him with alternatives and he’ll tame down – at least some.
5. When you’re away, keep him busy. If your cat is used to company, he may get bored and inadvertently destruction while you’re at work or are gone for any length of time. Here’s a quick hint. Buy a timer for your television set, make sure the TV is tuned to an animal-friendly channel (an outdoor channel or Animal Planet for instance) and then have the television automatically turn on at different times of the day. Cats can see images on the screen. He’ll come to investigate the noise and stay to watch the picture – at least for a while.
6. The value of a spray bottle of water. In some instances, spraying a cat with a harmless water bottle is enough to get their attention and stop the bad behavior. You only need a simple spray bottle that you use for misting plants. Squirt the cat if it misbehaves. Soon, he’ll know that he can’t do that.
7. Blow a harmless puff of air in your cat’s face. Yes, this sounds crazy, but it really works. If your cat is literally in your face and you need to teach him to keep a certain distance and give you some space, try it. Blow a puff of air into his face. It’ll startle and puzzle him. Soon, he’ll associate the two and you won’t be bothered by the unpleasant attention he gives you.
8. Make sure you cat has “a room with a view”. You know what they say, “curiosity killed the cat.” More appropriately, an irate owner went berserk over something a bored cat got into. Much of the bad behavior of your cat is simply due to his innate curiosity. Make sure he has a ledge or window sill that he can sit in comfortably to check out the birds and squirrels in your yard. If your window sill isn’t large enough for him to sit for extended periods, you can by an extension at the pet store. Or, if someone you know is handy, you can make your own.
9. Spend quality time with your cat. As a training technique, this may sound a bit unorthodox. But, it’s really a savvy move on your part. The more time you spend with your kitty, the better you’ll be able to communicate with her. Cats definitely have a form of communication skills that involves more than just “talking.” The better you know your cat – and just as importantly, the better your cat knows you – you’ll be able “to read her mind”. You’ll just “know” when she’s considering an improper move. And she’ll know when you disapprove just by reading your body language and the look on your face.
10. Confine the aggressive cat. Reward the victim. Got more than one cat? Then you probably have that occasional “cat fight.” Felines are territorial animals. They will get into a fight now and then over their “catdom.” If you view the fight, your first step is to disengage the action. Using a water sprayer is the best method. Squirt the aggressor. Try to avoid squirting the victim. After that, confine the “bully” in a less attractive space. In the meantime, reward the cat who didn’t attack – even when she was being attacked. Give her a treat and let her free roam the house. When you do put this pair of felines together again, try to keep them as supervised as possible.
These ideas are only the tip of the iceberg when you’re training your cat. As you and your pet begin to know each better, you’ll discover a language of your own. It may be through speech – you talk and she meows. But more than likely, the two of you will eventually be able to read each other’s body language. You’ll soon learn the subtle nuances of this very effective form of communication . . . and teaching your cat what she needs to know will be easier than you can ever imagine.
By: Jim Moore
About the Author:
Jim Moore has come to appreciate throughout his life how you should take care and give loving attention to your cat. Jim owns and maintains http://www.apurrfectcat.com.
Which Cat Food Bowls and Cat Food Dishes are safe for your Cats to eat from?
Cat Food dishes are a very common and easily found cat food item. Yet sometimes, if there isn’t a shop in your near you might have to go online to find the right cat food dish. In which case you should first compare a few different cat food dishes and cat food bowls before desiding for one spesific cat food bowl.
You can also compare prices for your cat food dish in a few different shops, but mostly the prices for cat food dishes will be the same, since it’s such a low priced item any way…..
All cats need to eat from something and of course if you have a cat you will need to have a cat food dish or food bowl. There are the most common kinds of cat food dishes such as plastic food dish for cats, stainless steal cat food dish and a ceramic or porcelan cat food bowl.
Compare these three most common cat food dishes and cat food bowls to find which one is the right one for your cat!
There are three common kinds of cat food bowls and cat food dishes:
A ceramic or porcelan cat food dish A plastic cat food bowl A stainless steel cat food dish
A Ceramic or Porcelan Cat Food Dish
A lot of ceramic and porcelan cat food dishes are very beautifully decorated. Ceramic Cat food dishes are heavier then other cat food dishes and wont fall over if thrown around. However if you buy a fancy painted cat food bowl, make sure that it is marked “safe for food”. Some fancy, decorated and beautiful cat food dishes contain lead in the paint or glaze (or other things), which is poisonous when eaten by humans or pets. Usually if the food dishes are safe for people to use, then they will probably be safe for your cat.
Just check to make sure!
Plastic Cat Food Bowl – safe or not?
Plastic cat food bowls are commonly sold in pet supply stores and are easy to clean, can not be broken and are usually very cheap too.
Nevertheless, plastic cat food dishes are not highly recommended.
They tend to get scratched easily and could house bacteria that will make your cat or kitten sick.
The plastic cat food dishes also get slime on the sides and that can caus serious problems for your cat and for you too.
Our cats like to play with any water dish or cat food dish and fling them across the floor causing a lot of mess and water. There for plastic bowls aren’t recommended since they are easier to fling and knock over and can really caus a big mess!
WARNING: Sometimes, a very cheap plastic cat food dish might come with a very sharp edge that could perhaps cut your cats lips or skin. Therefor check any plastic cat food dishes before buying any cat food dish or bowl.
Stainless Steel Cat Food Bowls:
Stainless steel bowls are solled almost everywhere. Stainless steal cat food bowls are dishwasher safe and sturdy. However there are some minuses to consider before buying any stainless steal cat food dish….
Some people think that stainless steel cat food bowls are not a good choice either since they give the cat food a bad metallic taste. Although I never had a bad experience with steal cat food dishes, (since I have never bought a stainless steal cat food dish for my cats) I can imagine that it probably would have the same affect as our steal pott that made us sick!
However since i personly have not tried it, you could give it a go if you wanted to!
3 Cat Food Bowl Tips:
1. Whatever type of dishes you purchase, make sure they are washed out and refilled every day with clean fresh water.
2. Use a wet sponge to rub the sides and corners of the cat food dish to make sure that no bacterias and slime are growing there.
3. TIP: When you choose any cat food dishes for your cat, buy something that is sturdy, dishwasher safe and made of metal or ceramic that wont brake if your cat/s knock it over and wont make the cats food taste bad!
For lots more information on cats and kittens visit my blog: http://catlovingcare.com
Thanks for reading!
CatsCamille
By: Cats Camille
About the Author:
Cats Camille is a published and much loved cat and animal lover. Cats Camille loves writing, having fun and educating people about animals, cats, kittens and teaching people more about cats! Read what she has to say on http://catlovingcare.com or follow her on twitter: http:twitter.com/CatsCamille
Killing fleas and Ticks on cats? How to kill fleas and get rid of fleas and ticks on cats?
# Most importantly, if you have just discovered the fleas and ticks on cats, then quarantine your cat to one room. Hopefully you will soon be killing fleas and tick quickly and you will soon see your little kitty cat again.
This must be done(unless too late already)so that all cat fleas and ticks will hopefully stay in one room and you wont have a complete flea infestation.
# Vacuum the whole house to get rid of any fleas and ticks on the floors or furniture. They often like to hide in all kinds of places.
# Make sure to wash and disinfect all your clothes in case any fleas or ticks are hiding inside of them, as they often do. Also, you may want to spray your clothes in case fleas have planted their flea larvae inside.
# Next, shake all rugs, if you have any, and vacuum them as well.
# You can also use a flea and tick control spray to get rid of any fleas and ticks on your cat and house. The flea and tick spray to kill any hidding fleas and ticks.
# Make sure to wash your bedroom and other rooms very well too. Any closets or wardrobes must be thoroughly washed and checked.
How to get rid of fleas and ticks on your cat:
# First of all, wash your cat in an “anti flea bath.” This often means you will have to wash your cat in a bathtub with water and flea shampoo.
# Be very careful that the soap and water doesn’t go in your cats eyes. Cats naturally hate water and being bathed so most people who don’t know how to bath a cat will most likely encounter serious difficulty with this step.
To avoid having problems when bathing a cat, I recommend you to read more on how to bath a cat here: http://twitpwr.com/howtowashyourcat/
Or here: http://catlovingcare.com/
# After drying your little cat with a towl, sitt your cat down between your legs and start the work of combing the ticks out. First tackle one half of its hairs before brushing through to remove the fleas and ticks from the other half. Brush slowly and regularly, trying not to pull out any hairs. If there still are some consistent ticks, then use a pair of pincers to pull them out!
# When pulling ticks out of your cats furr, you must be very careful to avoid leaving the head of the tick inside, as this will cause infections, some of them deadly.
# When pulling out a tick, take a lighter and hold it near her or his fur.
Beware to part his or her fur BEFORE lighting the lighter. When the fire comes near the tick, it will roll up and be easy to remove.
WARNING: Be very CAREFUL when using this method of killing fleas and ticks! Sometimes a better option is to search online for a flea and tick remover for example tick twister.
# Make sure to buy a cat flea and tick control. This is needed to be sure that after your hard work killing fleas and ticks on your cat, the fleas and ticks don’t come back again. you can find all kinds of good flea and tick control here: http://squidoo.com/frontline-plus-flea-control-for-cats
Frontline is my personal favorite.
If you get a flea and tick shampoo or treatment online, check the fur every few days to be sure the fleas or ticks are gone. If you do see more fleas or ticks, quarantine your pet, and begin the whole process again.
Hope this will help you quickly start killing fleas and ticks and get rid of fleas and ticks on your pets for good!
Greetings,
your friend Cat camille – known published author’, article_summary = ‘Is killing Cat Fleas and Ticks easy? How can i get rid of fleas and ticks affordably? Learn here how to kill fleas and ticks on cats and in your home in only a few easy steps! Start killing fleas and ticks on cats and humans today->’, article_authorinfo = ‘Camille, a published author from CatLovingCare.com. is here to share with you all kinds of good deals and cat tips. From her professional cat experience, she there for knows a lot about cats and can help you with her knowledge too. She loves sharing tips, tricks and other useful information all around cats and is always willing to help answer a question. Visit her on http://catlovingcare.com or ask her a question. She will be sure to answer you as fast as possible! Cat- Camille’
If your cat has fleas and ticks, then you need to start killing fleas in your house:
# Most importantly, if you have just discovered the fleas and ticks on cats, then quarantine your cat to one room.
Hopefully you will soon be killing fleas and tick quickly and you will soon see your little kitty cat again.
This must be done(unless too late already)so that all cat fleas and ticks will hopefully stay in one room and you wont have a complete flea infestation.
# Vacuum the whole house to get rid of any fleas and ticks on the floors or furniture. They often like to hide in all kinds of places.
# Make sure to wash and disinfect all your clothes in case any fleas or ticks are hiding inside of them, as they often do. Also, you may want to spray your clothes in case fleas have planted their flea larvae inside.
# Next, shake all rugs, if you have any, and vacuum them as well.
# You can also use a flea and tick control spray to get rid of any fleas and ticks on your cat and house. The flea and tick spray to kill any hidding fleas and ticks.
# Make sure to wash your bedroom and other rooms very well too. Any closets or wardrobes must be thoroughly washed and checked.
How to get rid of fleas and ticks on your cat:
# First of all, wash your cat in an “anti flea bath.” This often means you willhave to wash your cat in a bathtub with water and flea shampoo.
# Be very careful that the soap and water doesn’t go in your cats eyes. Cats naturally hate water and being bathed so most people who don’t know how to bath a cat will most likely encounter serious difficulty with this step.
To avoid having problems when bathing a cat, I recommend you to read more on how to bath a cat here: http://twitpwr.com/howtowashyourcat/
# After drying your little cat with a towl, sitt your cat down between your legs and start the work of combing the ticks out.
First tackle one half of its hairs before brushing through to remove the fleas and ticks from the other half. Brush slowly and regularly, trying not to pull out any hairs.
If there are still some consistent ticks, then use a pair of pincers to pull them out!
# When pulling ticks out of your cats furr, you must be very careful to avoid leaving the head of the tick inside, as this will cause infections, some of them deadly.
# When pulling out a tick, take a lighter and hold it near the or his fur.
Beware to part his or her fur BEFORE lighting the lighter.
When the fire comes near the tick, it will roll up and be easy to remove.
WARNING: Be very CAREFUL when using this method of killing fleas and ticks!
# Make sure to buy a cat flea and tick control. This is needed to be sure that after your hard work killing fleas and ticks on your cat, the fleas and ticks don’t come back again.
You can find all kinds of good flea and tick control here: http://catlovingcare.com
Frontline Plus for cats is my personal favorite. read why…
#In the case that you buy a flea and tick shampoo or treatment online, check the fur of your cat every few days to be sure the fleas or ticks are gone.
If you do see more fleas or ticks, quarantine your cat, and begin the whole process again.
Hope this will help you quickly start killing fleas and ticks and get rid of fleas and ticks on your pets for good!
Greetings,
Your friend Cat Camille – known published author
By: Cats Camille
About the Author:
‘Camille, a published author from CatLovingCare.com. is here to share with you all kinds of good deals and cat tips. From her professional cat experience, she knows a lot about cats and can help you with her knowledge on cats a lot too. She loves sharing tips, tricks and other useful information all about cats and is always willing to help answer a question. Visit her on http://catlovingcare.com or ask her a question. She will be sure to answer you as fast as possible! CatCamille










